DISCLAIMER: THIS PAGE IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. CHRIS' COFFEE SERVICE BEARS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY INJURIES OR LOSSES RESULTING FROM ANY ATTEMPT TO PERFORM THESE ADJUSTMENTS.

Questions and Answers

Espresso machine cleaning Why, How, and When?
How does a (HX) Heat Exchanger machine work?
Want to see an exploded view of an E61 group?
Where can I find more information about espresso, espresso extraction technique, and equipment?
How do I change the group gasket on E61 machine?
How do I replace a C.E.M.E. pressure stat with a MA-TER pressure stat?
What terminals do I use when changing an Isomac thermostat for a Prodigy thermostat?
How to properly replace a liquid level sensor probe.
What is the proper method for frothing milk?
Now that I have a bottomless portafilter how do I use it?
What size E61 group gasket do I need for my machine?
How often should I backflush?
What happens if I backflush too often?
Should I backflush my machine?
What kind of detergent should I use for backflushing?
Why shouldn't I use household cleaners for backflushing?
How do I backflush using espresso cleaner?
What is the best & safest way to clean my grinder?
Softener & Filter System, What is the proper way to install them?
Softener & Filter System, When do I charge my softener cartridge?

Andreja Premium & Anita: Finding the resettable high-temperature limit switch
Andreja Premium & Anita: Adjusting the boiler pressure
Andreja Premium & Anita: Adjusting the brew pressure
Andreja Premium: How to remove outer shell
Andreja Premium: What makes their valves superior to most?

Vetrano: How to adjust rotary pump pressure.

Rancilio Silvia: How do I get the most out of Silvia?

Espresso machine cleaning Why, How, and When?
Here is example of yet another very useful article titled "Espresso Machines Cleaning Why, How, and When. This article has several authors. Dave Stephens introduces why cleaning must be a regular part of your barista duties and how to perform them with step-by-step instructions focused on the business-end of your espresso machine. Nick Griffith outlines when these cleaning duties need to be peformed. Finally, Chris Tacy explains the salient differences between the cleaning regimes for home and commercial establishments. The instructions and recommendations presented generally apply to any espresso machine with a three-way valve type group; feel free to adapt these instructions to your own personal use. In doing so, you remove one impediment standing between you and great espresso. Click Here

Where can I find more information about espresso, espresso extraction technique, and equipment?
Here is a link to a very well written article by Jim Schulman that is lengthy but covers a lot of information that in my opinion one must at least have an understanding of in order to pull a good espresso. Click Here

How does a (HX) Heat Exchanger machine work?

Here is a diagram of the workings of a heat exchanger machine. The pump pulls water from the tank and directs it through the heat exchanger where it is heated to make coffee with. Note that it passes the expansion valve; the expansion valve is what regulates the pumps maximum out put pressure before it reaches the heat exchanger. After the water passes through the heat exchanger it passes through the three-way valve, this valves purpose is to release built up pressure in the portafilter once you are through pulling your shot. If this valve were not there hot coffee grounds could squirt all over you when you removed the portafilter from the group after pulling a shot. It releases the pressure into the drip try and is a safety feature. When you perform back flushing this three-way valve is what you are cleaning besides the obvious shower screen.
Note: If you look closely at the diagram you will see that when the water exits the pump and heads toward the heat exchanger there is a boiler fill solenoid valve in the path. When the level of water in the boiler is low the boiler fill solenoid opens and the pump is activated to refill the boiler. A common question we get asked is why does my pressure some times drop while pulling a shot for a few seconds and then go back up? Simple answer your boiler called for water while you were pulling the shot. When this happens the water from the pump has two paths to follow, the one directly to the boiler or the one through the heater exchanger and your coffee in the portafilter. The water naturally follows the path of least resistance, the one directly to the boiler. How do you prevent this from happening? The easiest way is to pull a little water from your hot water spigot before you make you coffee. Just pull enough too active the pump and cap off the water level in your boiler. This will greatly reduce the chance of it calling for water while you are making coffee.
 
How do I change the group gasket on E61 machine?
Here is a link to a well written article by Terry Z. that includes images on how to change the group gasket and shower screen on an E61 group. Click Here

How do I replace a C.E.M.E. pressure stat with a MA-TER pressure stat?
There are a few different manufacturers of pressure stats for machines like the Andreja Premium, Anita, Pasquini, Isomac Tea, etc.

C.E.M.E. and MA-TER Pressure Stats

They are all interchangeable the only thing you have to do is swap the wires from the common to common, normally open to normally open, and lastly normally closed to normally closed. In some cases you might need an adaptor for the plumbing fitting. When we send out MA-TER stats as a replacement for a C.E.M.E. stats we include an adaptor for use on an Andreja or Anita. The MA-TER is 1/4 male pipe thread and has to be reduced to 1/8 male pipe thread. Click on the image for an exploded view showing which terminals are which.

What terminals do I use when changing an Isomac thermostat for a Prodigy thermostat?
The Isomac thermostat uses terminals P and terminals 1.
The Prodigy thermostat uses terminals P1 and terminals 1. See the images:

Isomac thermostat	Prodigy thermostat

Note: There is no polarity on a thermostat therefore it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal as long as t is the correct two terminals.

How to properly replace a liquid level sensor probe.

Step one remove your old sensor probe by loosing the boiler nut. NOT THE PROBE NUT!
Step two measure the length of the new probe against the old probe. They may vary in length as much as an inch, which is not a problem. What is important is how much of the probe is inserted into the boiler. If it is not enough your boiler will be too full which will result in two things. Very wet steam and not much of it. If it is too low you can burn out your heater. Simply make a mark with a Sharpe pen on the sensor probe itself for a reference. If the new probe is longer it is ok to trim it too if you like.
Step three wrap a couple of turns of Teflon tape around the male threads of the boiler nut.
Step four thread the boiler nut securely into the boiler, not too tight, don't snap it off.
Step five drop the rest of the assembly as shown in the image down through the center of the boiler nut.
Step six snug up the probe nut. Note; I said snug up the nut, DO NOT over tighten. If you over tighten you will crack the Teflon sleeve and the probe will sense ground all the time resulting in your machine not calling for water. All you want to do is snug it up so it holds the probe at the proper height and there is no steam leaking around it when you pressurize your boiler.

What is the proper method for frothing milk?
Here is a link to another well written article, this one by Aaron De Lazzer, on the finer points of frothing milk. Aaron's article not only explains the proper method to strech then texturize your milk but it also includes several images. Click Here

Here is an article written by David Schomer on "Milk Texturing Basics" which is a must read for beginners. Click Here

Now that I have a bottomless portafilter how do I use it?
Here is an excellent acticle written by Dan Kehn titled Perfecting the Naked Extraction Dan's article includes several images that show such things as Channeling, Tiger Striping, Blond Gushers, etc, etc. Dan explains in detail things like, what causes Channeling and how to fix it. Click Here

Here is another well written article that won the author, Jon Rosenthal, second place in a contest sponsored by Home-Barista.com it containes several pictures and is very easy to understand. Click Here

Rancilio Silvia: How do I get the most out of Silvia
Here is the best instructions on how to get the most out of your Rancilio Silvia. This article was written by Mark Prince and includes 27 images with step by step timed instructions. Click Here

What size E61 group gasket do I need for my machine?
For almost all E61 machines the correct gasket size is 8.5 mm. On our web site we offer an 8 mm as well. I suggest you use the thinnner, 8 mm gasket, if you have an original La Marzocco portafilter. The reason is the La Marzocco portafilter has slightly thicker ears, which prevents it from locking in as secure as it should. The slightly thinner gasket allows the portafilter to move farther to the right and results in a more secure fit.

How often should I backflush?
You can backflush as often as you like with plain water, every time you make coffee if you like, it won't hurt a thing. Backflushing with detergent is a different story. The frequency that you should backflush depends on how much coffee you make each day. For example, if you work in a coffeehouse making hundreds of espresso drinks per day, you should be backflushing nightly. However, if you are a home user making between two and six shots per day, I only recommend you backflush with detergent not more than once every four to six weeks.

What happens if I backflush too often?
If you have a machine with an lever action E61 group, the detergent will remove all the oils and the lever will be more difficult to move up and down. It may also start to squeak.

Should I backflush my machine?
If your machine has a three-way solenoid valve, then yes, you should be backflushing.

What kind of detergent should I use for backflushing?
There are only two products on the market that I have positive personal experience: Cafaza by Urnex and PuroCaf.

Why shouldn't I use household cleaners for backflushing?

• Undissolved detergent can make your espresso taste less than desirable. In addition, the undissolved granules can cause the solenoid valve to jam open or not close completely. Espresso cleaner are especially designed to dissolve completely and leave no residues.
  
• The detergent must be gentle enough so as not to harm the soft metals or rubber components inside the group and solenoid valve. A harsh detergent could ruin valve seats, or worse yet attack the group's metal. Espresso cleaner is especially formulated to gently clean the interior of your machine.
  
• Use of inappropriate cleaners or improper use of recommend cleaners may damage your machine; these repairs are not covered under warranty.
  
  

How do I backflush using espresso cleaner?

• Start by inserting your blank (blind) basket into the portafilter, and then add no more than 1/2 teaspoon of approved espresso machine cleaner into the blank.
  Secure the portafilter firmly into the group and activate the pump; let it run for approximately 10 to 15 seconds.
  
• Turn the pump off and wait 30 to 45 seconds to give the detergent time to dissolve the coffee oils.
  
• Repeat the previous two steps 4 to 5 more times; you may need to repeat these steps even more if you used too much detergent.
  
• Once it appears that all the detergent is dissolved, remove the portafilter and run more water through the group. Continue to do so until all the detergent is gone.
  
• Moisten a soft cloth towel, then push it up in the gasket groove and trace the full inner circumference to do an even more thorough cleaning.
  
• Once you finish, pull a shot and throw it away. This tossed shot "cures" the group by coating it with oils. Note! There are just as many machines that have problems as a result of improper or too frequent backflushing as those with problems because they were not backflushed at all.
  
  

What is the best & safest way to clean my grinder?

The safest and best way to clean your grinder, in our opinion, is with a product called Grindz. Why Grindz and not just take your grinder apart and clean it with a brush? Good question. There are a few reasons; first you take the risk of loosing a small part to your grinder when disassembling it or worse yet cross threading it when reassembling it, then your grinder is ruined. Next is the obvious, it's much faster and easier. Last but not least Grindz does a better job because it not only removes old coffee grinds but it also absorbs and removes odors. Want to know more about Grindz and how to purchase it? Click Here

Andreja Premium: What makes their valves superior most?

If you look at the two images below you will first notice there are more pieces to the valve assembly that comes on the Andreja Premium. The Andreja Premium's, Non-Compression valve, is the same valve used on many commercial machines. This type valve is not only built to last, but it is constructed so it can be inexpensively repaired when necessary. The fact is the non-compression valve can be rebuilt inexpensively and the compression type valve cannot it must be replaced. The non-compression type valve is held closed by the force of the spring, not by how tight you close it; you cannot put more pressure on the seat than the spring exerts.

Andreja Premium Non-Compression Valve	Compression style valve

Click image to enlarge

Andreja Premium & Anita: Find resettable high-temperature limit switch

IMPORTANT: Unplug the machine when making this adjustment. Turning it off at the switch isn't enough—unplug it.

• You must first remove your outer shell, for Andreja Premium Click Here for Anita simply remove the six outer screws.
  
• See the red button shown in the image to the right.
  
  
  
  

Click image to enlarge

Andreja Premium & Anita: Adjusting the boiler pressure

IMPORTANT: Unplug the machine when making this adjustment. Turning it off at the switch isn't enough—unplug it.

The pressure stat is VERY delicate if you make too large of adjustments YOU WILL BREAK THE PRESSURE STAT. The replacement of the pressure stat therefore WILL NOT BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY!!

Note: The pressurestat is the brown cylinder with the yellow top and three wires attached to the top (image). You should turn the larger center screw, not the smaller off-center screw, which is for adjusting the deadband (range between "turn on" and "turn off").

• You must first remove your outer shell, for Andreja Premium Click Here for Anita simply remove the six outer screws.
  
• Verify the direction for increasing or decreasing the pressure by looking for +/- arrows. Manufacturers can change among equivalent thermostat models from one run to the next and the adjustment direction may be different.
  
• Make very small adjustments, equivalent to five minutes on a clock at most. *Verify the setting has stabilized by activating the pressurestat at least three to four times before making another adjustment.
  
• The pressurestat "on" setting is the point where the red light illuminates; the "off" setting is where the green light illuminates. These readings are slightly higher (lower) than the gauge's lowest (highest) point because the pressure continues to drop below the lower setpoint for a moment after the heating element comes on, and momentarily rises past the higher setpoint after it turns off.
  
• Do not adjust the dead band screw (smaller and off-center). A common mistake is to turn it too far and break the pressurestat, which will not be covered under warranty. The deadband factory setting is 0.2 bar; if your machine's setting is markedly greater, call our service department for assistance.
  
  

Click image to enlarge

Andreja Premium & Anita: Adjust brew pressure

IMPORTANT: Unplug the machine when making this adjustment. Turning it off at the switch isn't enough—unplug it.

• You must first remove your outer shell, for Andreja Premium Click Here for Anita simply remove the six outer screws.
  
• Put your blank into your portafilter and then secure it into the  group.
  
• Raise the brew lever all the way up and using a 12mm open-end wrench, rotate the adjustment nut (image)  to the right to increase the brew pressure and the left to decrease.
  When making adjustments you need to pay attention to the tube connected to bottom of the expansion valve. As you turn the nut on the valve you will most likely twist the silicone tubing. It is important that there is no twists in the tubing both while you are making adjustments as well as when you are finished. If you have twists in the tubing you will not be able to make accurate adjustments.
  
  
  
  

Click image to enlarge

Vetrano: How to adjust rotary pump pressure.

• First unplug your machine! Next lift off the top cover. Under the top cover you will see three screws, two toward the front and one in the back, remove them and lift off the panel. You must now remove the outer shell. A total of five screws need to be removed to take the outer shell off, two on each side and the one in back toward the bottom. If your machine has two screws on the back toward the top, DO NOT REMOVE THEM it is not necessary.
  
• Now insert your blank into your portafilter and lock the portafilter into the group.
  
• Next loosen the LOCK NUT shown in the image.
  
• Now plug the machine in and raise the brew lever.
  
• To increase the pressure turn the adjustment nut, shown in the image, clockwise to decrease turn it counter clockwise. The pressure is displayed on the gauge on the front of the machine. Recomended pressure is 9 bar. We do not recommend pressure settings higher than 10 bar or lower than 8.5 bar.
  
• If you are having trouble with your machine holding pressure you may need to add a Pressure Regulator Valve and a Water Pressure Gauge.
  
  
  

Andreja Premium: How to remove the outer shell

IMPORTANT: Unplug the machine when making this adjustment. Turning it off at the switch isn't enough—unplug it.

• Remove the top cover and take out the two screws indicated in image #1 below.
  
• Remove the water and take out the two screws that hold the back panel indicated in image #2 below.
  
• Remove the drip tray and take out the two counter sunk screws on either side indicated in image #3 below. (screw on right side is not shown).
  
• Pop the back panel off as shown in image #4 below. The bottom is not screwed on; it pops off and on.
  
• After the back panel is off (image #5 below), take out the two screws indicated in image #6 below.
  
• You now have all the screws out and are ready to remove the shell in one piece. This part is a little tricky, it's almost like you need another hand. Take hold of the shell at the top and the bottom on the opposite side and spread the side panels apart and slip it up and over the machine. Be careful not to spread it too much or you will dent the top of the machine where the rail is attached. You might want to loosen the allen screws a little that hold the rail on before attempting to take the shell off. Only loosen them slightly to make it easier to spread the shell and not dent the top. See image #7 below.

  Image #1	Image #2	Image #3

  Image #4	Image #5	Image #6	Image #7

Softener & Filter System, What is the proper way to install them?

First let me start by explaining the sequence of the components starting from the water source. Max adaptor, tubing, shut off valve, tubing, softener housing, tubing, carbon filter housing, tubing, shut off valve, purge filters, and connect to machine.

That was the short simplified version now I will get into a little more detail. To install the max adaptor, go under your sink and shut the cold water off. Directly behind the shut off valve you just closed is a 3/8-inch compression fitting, undo it. Attach the max adaptor to where you just disconnected the water line that goes up to your cold-water faucet. Note: You may need to go to Home Depot to complete the next step.  Now connect the tubing that comes down from your faucet to the top of the max adaptor. It will require some bending if you have ridged 3/8 pipe. If you can't get it to line up by bending then disconnect it up above at the faucet and go to home depot, they sell several different lengths of flex braided tubing complete with the necessary fittings on both ends. Bring your old one with you to be sure you get the right length.

Now let me tell you something about John Guest Tubing, it's the best. There are two things to be sure you do when using this tubing. Number one when cutting it to the length you want always use a very sharp knife or a razor blade, it is important so as to keep the tubing perfectly round. Note: Never cut the tubing with a pair of side cutters. Second when you want to make a connection male to female be sure you push the tubing in all the way till it bottoms. When you first push it in it will feel as if it is in you will meet some resistance and think it is in all the way, push a little harder and it will go in another 1/8 inch and you will feel it press against a solid surface.

It is important that you install the filters in this order beginning at the water source, first the softener then the carbon filter. It is equally important that you install the two shut off valves, one between your source water and the softener housing and the second between the carbon filter housing and your machine. Stop Very Important: Do not connect to your machine until you first purge a gallon or two of water through the filters. This is extremely important; carbon filters have loose carbon dust in them that must be purged out before connecting to your machine. The carbon filter is there to protect your machine but with out purging you can cause damage to your machine not covered by warranty.

John Guest Fittings work like Chinese handcuffs, the more pressure the tighter they hold. It is for this reason you install the shut off valves were you do. To disconnect your machine or change a filter you must first release the pressure in the lines, here is how you do that. First turn the valve off before your softener, now go to your machine and make it call for water, either pull water through the group or from the hot water spigot. Your pump should start running; let it run for no more than 10 seconds. Now shut the valve off between your machine and the Carbon filter. You can now use the wrench provided to loosen either filter housing. To disconnect the tubing from a fitting you pull the small collar on the John Guest fitting towards the fitting and pull the tubing out. Note: If you do not pull the collar back you will never be able to disconnect the tubing from the fitting.

This softener is capable of removing approximately 850 grains of hardness. What does that mean to you? To get an idea of how many gallons of water it can soften for you, you need to know how many total grains of hardness in your water. You can find this out by calling the water district that supplies you water; you can find their phone number on that bill they send you. Once you know that simply divide 850 by the number of grains of hardness in your water to determine how many gallons this filter will soften. As for the carbon filter I recommend you change it once a year, and remember to purge it before reconnecting it to your machine.

Softener & Filter System, When do I charge my softener cartridge?
To start with it is important that your system be installed properly.
The proper sequence is as follows, water source, softener, carbon filter, machine.
It is important to install them in this order for two reasons.
First the carbon filter removes odor, off taste, and bacteria. It also removes chlorine, you don't want to remove chlorine from water before it goes into a softener, or the softener becomes a breeding ground for bacteria.
Second if any of the ion resin becomes loose in the softener cartridge you don't want it going into your espresso machine. When installed in the proper order that is not a worry, because the carbon filter will catch the resin before it can get into your machine.

Your carbon filter should be replaced once a year. It is rated as follows 500 gallons or 1 year which ever comes first. You will never go through 500 gallons before one year is up so just remember to change it annually.

How often should you charge your softener cartridge? This will vary depending on how hard your water is. There is a formula and it is not difficult, I will explain. First you need to know how hard your water is in grains of hardness. The softeners I sell will remove approximately 850 grains of hardness. Simply divide 850 grains by the number of grains of hardness in your water and the answer is how many gallons of water can be softened before it becomes necessary to charge your  softener cartridge.

What do you do when it's time? I'll tell you.
First turn off the water source. Next make your machine call for water, get the pump to come on. You must relieve the pressure from the lines or you will not be able to unscrew the housings or disconnect the John Guest Fittings. Once the pump comes on let it run for no more than 5 seconds and turn it off. Now turn your machine off and disconnect the water line from your machine. Next unscrew softener housing. Rinse out the housing and put a new softener cartridge in. Place the end of the John Guest tubing into a bucket and turn the water on full blast, let 2 to 3 gallons of water run through the new softener to purge it and then turn it off. Connect the John Guest tubing back up to your machine and you are set to go.  

Want to see an exploded view of an E61 group?
If you need to take your E61 Group apart to lubricate it or replace a part here is an excellent exploded view of all of it's parts, how it comes apart and how it goes back together. If you have water leaking from the lever of your E61 chances are you need to replace the two rubber washers identified in the exploded view as item number 602576. You can order them from our web site Click Here If there are other small parts for your E61 Group you are looking for you might want to Try Here we find them to be a good source for those small hard to find parts.